We have 573 federally recognized tribes in the United States. Additionally there are 634 First Nations in Canada and about 20% of Mexicans identify as a member of an Indigenous group. Native American foods, remedies and recipes are an important part of our history in North America.
Leading the charge to reclaim indigenous foodways is Sean Sherman. He is a chef, cookbook author and founder of The Sioux Chef, an organization committed to revitalizing Native American cuisine.
In piecing together so much of the story that has been lost, I learned that the original North American food system was based on harvesting wild plants for food and medicine, employing sophisticated agricultural practices, and on preserving seed diversity. My ancestors used all parts of the animals and plants with respect, viewing themselves as part of our environment, not above it. Nothing was wasted.
The Sioux Chef educates people on the authentic Indigenous foods with dishes free of the colonial ingredients Europeans introduced: wheat flour, dairy, cane sugar and even beef, pork and chicken. These recipes use seasonal ingredients and these vary from region to region. To experience true Indigenous foods is to explore the many different ecosystems of plants and animals wherever you are.
Before colonization of the Americas, peppers did not exist in the rest of the world! The pepper plant is native to Mexico, where it was originally cultivated and spread throughout the Americas.
Native to the southwest, smoked jalapeños (chipotle powder) and dried poblanos (ancho powder) have been a staple in indigenous cuisine. A popular recipe to try is Three Sisters Bowl. The "three sisters" are the crops often planted together: corn, squash and beans. Chef Johl Whiteduck Riguette shares his recipes for Three Sisters Stew and the significance of the three sisters.
We recommend Ramona Farms in Arizona to purchase local Tepary beans. Then give this recipe of Beans with Chili Agave Glaze a try.
Juniper berries are found throughout the US and Canada. It's a spice that's used in most indigenous cultures around the world, as it is easily foraged and the thick skin keeps the berries fresh for a long time. Juniper berries are not berries at all, but the female seed cone from the evergreen tree. Their flavor is described as piney and citrusy. To get the most flavor, purchase berries whole and crush just before use.
Here in the northwest, the Wabanaki Nation used juniper as a medicinal herb to heal infection, ease arthritis and treat stomach disorders. Juniper is a common seasoning for lean meats and wild game.
To give juniper a try, check out the Bison Pot Roast or Maple-Juniper Roasted Pheasant by The Sioux Chef. You can sub in juniper berries for a branch of white cedar to get a similar woodsy flavor. To make a simple dry game rub, mix crushed juniper, garlic or ginger, salt, pepper and chili. Juniper tea is easily enjoyed by steeping crushed berries in water for 10 minutes—they pair well with honey and mint.
Mentha canadenis is a species of mint native to North America to Eastern Asia. The essential oils were used an an herbal medicine. In the Northeast, mint could be used to treat colds and pneumonia. The Cherokee used mint to tea to smooth upset stomach and digestive problems. It is one of the top ten plants used in traditional medicine, with a recorded 115 uses!
And of course, it could be used as a seasoning. Try this recipe by Sean Sherman, Roasted Turkey with Berry Mint Sauce.
Allspice berries are native to Central America, West Indies and Mexico. The allspice berry is a confusing name for a single-spice. It got it's name when the berry was first exported to Europe as it's flavor is reminiscent of a mixture of clove, nutmeg and cinnamon.
In the US, allspice is often used with baked goods and is an essential ingredient in apple pie spice. But before baked goods, it was used in savory savory cuisine, such as stews and curries. To give this spice a try, mix allspice, salt and oil and run on pumpkin or winter squash and roast at 400-degree until done.
White sage or sacred sage is an evergreen perennial native to south western United States and northern Mexico. The seeds could be toasted and used is a primary ingredient in pinole, a traditional staple of the west. The leaves have been used to treat cold and flu, as well as burned in sacred rituals.
For an easy pre-colonial recipe, make Roasted Turnips and Squash with Agave Glaze. I substituted maple syrup to make the recipe local to Maine. Or try Maple-Sage Duck, which also uses juniper berries!
Prehistoric salt-making sites are found in Arkansas and in the Sierra mountains. In the southwest salt as mined from saline deposits. Salt was a traded commodity in pre-colonial times. It was thought that in the East, salt was used mostly as a condiment where as in the west it was used to preserve meats.
In cooking indigenous recipes, choose a salt high in minerals, such as Solar Maine Sea Salt or Peruvian Mined Salt.
Salish smoked salt is named after the coastal people of Puget sound who smoked salt over alderwood for centuries.
Sumac is a spice often associate with Middle Eastern cuisine, but it has been used here in North America for 1000s of years. Smooth sumac is native to all 48 states, so it was a seasoning that continued to be used even as Native Americans were displaced from their homelands during colonization.
Chef Shawn Adler takes you to wild harvest staghorn sumac in this video. Luckily, poison sumac has white berries, not red—so it is easy to tell apart.
Give sumac a try in this indigenous snack of White Corn Nuts. For a sweetener, use what is local for you: maple syrup, honey or agave to taste. Sumac "lemonade" is an easy, kid-friendly recipe to make from foraged sumac.
So let's cook up a few recipes to celebrate ingredients native to our land and the people who have taught us how to use them.
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Notes: I used maple syrup as it is a locally sourced ingredient here in Maine. View NYT recipe by Sean Sherman here.
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*Notes: I used nori flakes as a substitute. View original recipe by Sean Sherman here.
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*Note: I substituted dry yellow-eyed beans as they are native to Maine.
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